Mt. Shishapangma with Everest north Face Expedition spring 2024

Mount Shishapangma 8012m the 14th Highest Peak in the world; Mount Shishapangm is one of the very lovely mountain of China, which lies in the autonomous region of China called the Tibet, Only a very few people in the world had idea about the mount Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. The Tibetans regard it as the very holy mountain. It is the youngest mountain among the peaks situated above the height of 8000m; and there are only fourteen mountains above the 8000m high Himalayan ranges. Till to date many climbers have succeeded to approach on its apex.

We take time to acclimatize one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nyalam (3750m), which gives you good refreshment for your journey ahead; and also, there are chances to trek up the hills for acclimatization.

Route: The North West normal route to mount Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.

Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed. Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.

Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead. Sometimes the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well. We do proceed ABC to base camp of Shishapangma.

Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) and over night in hotel. We drive Tingri to Everest base camp 5200m. along the rough way with jerking & bouncing through the grassy plain way which leads you till to the Everest case camp; and it is called the Chinese base camp as well.

We have set up our camp at Everest base camp and stay two nights or more that depends on our members' feeling. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp and advance base camp, fixed at the different places are kept there permanently and now it's two days to ABC from there.

After walking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC, the route goes to the east Rongbuk glacier and after that there is an easy snowy slope to the North Col at 7070m. Where camp 1 is situated on snow. After that there is a long angled snow slopes to climb 7900m., where we should put camp 2 on the snow with mixed rock. The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks, which is a little bit difficult. From camp 3 to climb ahead to set up camp 3, this camp 3 is at the height of 8300m. On the slopes rock. From camp 3 to target North summit and last evening start climbing for final summit. The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on joint rocks and snow until we reach camp heights of 8400m. To reach there, we have to fix the ropes on climbing but there are safety lines, which provide you safe place when you are tired and the wind seems windy there. This route is mostly very windy.

Now the route is mixed with rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places; so you require very considerable care for yourself, to your clothing and oxygen equipments. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with a little bit height until we go ahead where we should fix the rope. Above there the climbing is a little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is in the series of small nude ridge, which is some time seems covered with snow. After that the route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead, Again after that section of the route, we should fix the rope. Above these steps, the route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not the series of ridge as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snowy slopes. Again there are quite steep and needed fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest 8848m. It is heist point of Earth.