Full board guided Cho Oyu & Everest north side expedition spring 2024

Austrian first climbs mount Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. Most of the mount Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route from there. Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.

Meeting and climbing information; Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.

After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization. Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.

We set up our camp at Chop Oyu base camp and stay two nights or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.

ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La pass nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of mount Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves. From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly. Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems.

Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent. Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. It is normal to descend to camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the advance base camp.

We drive Cho Oyu base camp to Tingri (4350m) then continue to Everest base camp 5200m. And it is called the Chinese base camp as well. We have set up our camp at Everest base camp and stay two nights or more that depends on our members' feeling. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. base camp and advance base camp, fixed at the different places are kept there permanently and now it's two days to ABC from there.

After walking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC, the route goes to the east Rongbuk glacier and after that there is an easy snowy slope to the North Col at 7070m. Where camp 1 is situated on snow. After that there is a long angled snow slopes to climb 7900m., where we should put camp 2 on the snow with mixed rock. The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks, which is a little bit difficult. From camp 3 to climb ahead to set up camp 3, this camp 3 is at the height of 8300m. On the slopes rock. From camp 3 to target North summit and last evening start climbing for final summit. The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on joint rocks and snow until we reach camp heights of 8400m. To reach there, we have to fix the ropes on climbing but there are safety lines, which provide you safe place when you are tired and the wind seems windy there. This route is mostly very windy. Now the route is mixed with rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places; so you require very considerable care for yourself, to your clothing and oxygen equipments. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with a little bit height until we go ahead where we should fix the rope.

Above there the climbing is a little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is in the series of small nude ridge, which is some time seems covered with snow. After that the route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead, Again after that section of the route, we should fix the rope. Above these steps, the route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not the series of ridge as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snowy slopes. Again there are quite steep and needed fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest 8848m. It is heist point of Earth.