International (Xang Dong Feng) Lhakpa Ri Expedition spring 2024

Many climbers are attracted to Mount Lhakpa Ri expedition in Tibet from Tibet side which divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glaciers. The moment one steps atop this mountain they feel to be at top of the world as this mountain is very close to Mount Everest. George Mallory climbed this mountain for the first time in 1921 when he was on his way to the Everest reconnaissance and he had seen its North Col. Again, in 1936 Bill Tilman made the second ascent to this mountain during his Everest exploration. And, the Third ascent was again made by a French Everest Summiteers, Michelle Pelle in 1988.

Following the same route as of previous expedition, the present expedition teams are carving their journey to climb this mountain. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- ShybruBesi – Kerung – Saga- Tingri and Lhakpa Ri base camp 5200m. Acclimatizing few days is worthy here. Then you should start your expedition towards the Middle camp 5780m, by preparing loading yaks and expedition crews. Spending one night in the middle camp, continue to this track to reach Advance Base camp (6400m).

You should take time to refresh yourself from altitude sickness and adapt in that environment for few days after this point. Then climbing ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where you can see the beautiful views of Mt. Makalu & Kanchanjunga and route up to the Mt. Lhakpa Ri. From ABC, start early in the morning to cross the Rongbuk glacier. Relatively low angled Clefts and slopes are on the way from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m, which is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach the very foot of the slope, leading you to the North ridge of the Summit,. The routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. Though this route is not that difficult to climb, it is quite long. Here main rope should be used with the group of 4-6 climbers. Kharta glacier and North Col of Everest can be seen at another side of North Ridge way leading up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. Mesmerizing views of 8000 meters above peaks and other small mountains are seen Lhakpa Ri. You can choose different route to get down via the capital city of old Tibet, Lhasa after conquering the summit, which can provide a different interesting experience for you.