International Pumori 7,161m Expedition spring 2024

At first moving from Kathmandu - Lukla flight followed by trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche, Mount Pumori Base camp can be reached. Mount Pumori is situated at an altitude of 7145m and the ascent starts at an elevation of 5300m which is right beside a beautiful small lake. From here you can get an exclusive view of Mt. Everest and Kalapathar at 5545m

Camp 1: You will reach Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (ABC) 5700m after 3 hours of walking. Then you should walk a distance of some 500m at an elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. There are many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to the wind, narrow ridges, some ice walls, and also a tunnel climb on Mount Pumori. Fixed ropes can also be required sometimes.

Camp 2: It begins at 6200m which is located on a narrow ridge with no avalanche risk. The next 400m is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees. Above-5000m high is the ice walls, many clefts, and avalanche risk is from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Camp 3: It is at the height of 6850m, which is too windy. You can see Tibetan plateau from here. Ropes are necessary because of many crevasses and ice wall's way to summit. Then there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and another from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this trek, the Summit is easy to step on its vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: As it is clear that the route to Mount Pumori is not easy as that of several other mountains, there are also difficult technical parts in this route. We suggest you to take Professional climbers help. They guide you to reach the top of Pumori and also ensure your safety. Set up at least 3 more camps after the base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the height of 5300m. After the base camp, you can set up your first mission camp at 5,650m, around the base of Mount Pumori. Please set the second camp at the ridge after the previous phase at 6000m height. The most technical and difficult part of this peak is around Camps 1 and 2. You should set Camp 3 at 6480m, around the corner after the ridge. You can climb the summit of mount Pumori from Camp 3. This route is used by most climbers.
South - West ridge: Very few climbers have tried to do this expedition from this difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge extending as much as 75 degree. With lots of technical difficulties it is not safe to travel through this route so we suggest to you to use the normal route of mount Pumori so that your group will comfortably step on its Top. You can check The Himalayan Journal (1996) or American Alpine Journal (1997) for more information.