International Pumori 7,161m. Expedition spring 2024

Mount Pumori Base Camp can be reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight followed by trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m high and the ascent starts at an elevation of 5300m which is right beside a beautiful small lake. From here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapathhar at 5545m.

Camp 1: After 3 hours walk you will reach Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (ABC) 5700m. After that you will have to walk a distance of some 500m at an elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to the wind, narrow ridges, some ice walls, and also a tunnel climb. Sometimes you may need fixed ropes as well

Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice wall's way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on its vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: As you know the route to Mount Pumori is not easy as like several the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest to you to take aid from professional Sherpa climbers. They will not only guide you to reach the top of Pumori but also ensure your safety in all circumstances.

Have at least 3 more camps set after the base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After the base camp, you can set up your first mission camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the base of mount Pumori. Please set to the second camp at the ridge after the previous phase at the altitude of 6000m. The most technical part of this peak is around Camps 1 and 2. You should set Camp 3 at the altitude of 6480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend the summit of mount Pumori from Camp 3. Most climbers use this route every year for the expedition. South - West ridge: Only very few climbers have tried this route as it is a very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge extending as much as 75 degree. As this route has a lot of technical difficulties, we suggest to you to use the normal route of mount Pumori so that your group will comfortably reach its Top. For more information please check The Himalayan Journal (1996) or American Alpine Journal (1997).