Annapurna 1 Expedition 8,091 m. autumn 2024

Mount Annapurna is the tenth highest mountain in the world situated at an altitude of 8091 meters. Literally the meaning of Annapurna is Goddess of the Harvests as per Sanskrit language. This mountain is situated in mid western part of Nepal. It was first climbed by a French expedition team led by Maurice Herzog in 1950. Four summits fall in Annapurna region. The entire massif forms a barrier on the northern side of the beautiful Pokhara valley. The main summit stands to the west of Annapurna sanctuary. After descending the difficult Mount Dhaulagiri those French team turned their attention to climb Annapurna. Due to inaccurate maps most of their time was spent finding a way to the foot of the mountain. They eventually climbed via Miristi Khola to the north face of mount Annapurna. As the summiteers suffered from frostbite on descends, and they were no any specialized medical centers in Nepal those days, they had to be evacuated back to the road heading to India for treatment.

Until 1970 no one dared to climb this Annapurna. British army expedition followed essentially the same route as Herzog. At same time Cris Boning led successful British expedition to the very steep and difficult south face. With total 109 ascents, Annapurna has had fewer successful climbs than any other 8000m above peaks.

Annapurna ClimbingDuring Autumn of the year 2006, Monterosa Treks and Expedition operated Annapurna Expedition led by Mr. Marco Camondona with all group from Italy as well as spring 2015 was The "A dream Invest" Romanian Expedition - Annapurna 2015 led by Mr. Zsolt Torok.

Standing at an elevation of 8586m, Kanchanjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal which is situated in Eastern Nepal. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, 8420m high, and some people even classify it as a separate 8000m peak. The first westerner to explore Kanchanjunga was a British botanist J.D. Hooker, who visited the area two times, in 1848 and in 1849. The British explorers mapping and photographing until 1899 continued the exploration from Sikkim Side. In that year a team led by Douglas Fresh Field made a circuit of Kanchanjunga and produced the map of the region, which is still the most authentic one.

Exploration continued mostly from the Darjeeling of Sikkim side. One of the major contributors to Western knowledge about the region was Dr. A.M Kellas, who later died in Tibet during the Everest Expedition approach in 1921. German expeditions attempted many times like in 1929, in 1930 and again in 1931, but all failed. When the Sikkim entrance was closed, Nepal entrance was still open and a team in 1955 led by Dr. Charl as Evans approached the peak via the Yalung Glacier. The Japanese also mounted expeditions in 1967, 1973 and 1974. When they had climbed Yalung Kang, a German Expedition ascended Yalung Kang in 1975, and an Indian army team also climbed the main peak of mount Kanchanjunga, which was the second successful expedition.